KUALA TERENGGANU HISTORIC WATERFRONT CITY
KUALA Terengganu is a place in a hurry. This must be the go-go years for Terengganu, and the state capital looks ambitious, with many things being constructed, planned and dreamed of. With the new year, it became the mouthful "Kuala Terengganu, the Historic Waterfront City". It has been a couple of years since I was there; the recent long weekend was an opportunity to re-acquaint myself with a place that I may spend my twilight years in. Two years is like a lifetime, it seems. There are buildings and roads never seen before, some nice and some not. And like Malaysians elsewhere, KT folks have embraced the cool comfort of hypermarkets and their dizzying choices.
The tranquil KT I first encountered decades ago is no more, not even at night.
The long weekend saw more cars with outstation plates, and longer lines at a favoured nasi dagang stall in Chendering, while hotels, guest houses and home-stays sold out early. Pasar Payang is the central market and major tourist destination offering East Coast specialties like batik, brass wares and keropok lekor was choc-a-block with dialects from far and wide. Well, at times I wished that, too, but this must surely be Visit Terengganu Year 2008.But there are some old world charms left in Kuala Terengganu: trishaws commandered by men with mengkuang hats; penambang, which are small commuter boats that ply the route between Pasar Payang and Seberang Takir; and folk look askance at traders who fleece tourists at Batu Burok beach. The vendors at Pasar Payang leave their produce and wares covered with tarpaulin or canvas before they leave for the day; no locks or keys, only faith in humanity and in man's fear of the hereafter.
There is something that was a constant ring this past week, it is Masjid Kristal at the Islamic Civilisation Park at Pulau Wan Man, 4km from the city centre. The park, officiated by the king last week, is a collection of 21 Islamic-inspired architectural structures, replicated there in a miniaturised yet imposing scale. They include the Taj Mahal of India, Al-Hambra (Spain), Kaylan Tower (Uzbekistan), Samarra Mosque (Iraq), Suleyman Complex (Turkey) and Xian Mosque (China).As per at Teluk Wan Man on Sungai Terengganu, you could be transported to different cultures just by crossing the street.
But it is Masjid Kristal, the park's crowning glory, that is likely to be fodder in this year's election. It must be noted that the crystal mosque suffered from bad public relations even before it was built, when it began to be referred as Masjid Kristal. Crystal denotes luxury and grandiosity. Many feel Terengganu needs many more things than a crystal mosque. Suspending my cynicism, I believe that the crystal mosque and the Islamic Civilisation park could work. Tourist destinations in Kuala Terengganu include Kampung China or Chinatown, Pasar Payang, Istana Maziah and the state museum. Most tourists head for the islands, and KT is just an airport stop. Now imagine an Islamic theme park with an opportunity for a royal wedding.Malaysian Muslims, who are the majority in the country, and to whom the project is most politicised, may soon find the place to be an irresistible destination.
KUALA Terengganu is a place in a hurry. This must be the go-go years for Terengganu, and the state capital looks ambitious, with many things being constructed, planned and dreamed of. With the new year, it became the mouthful "Kuala Terengganu, the Historic Waterfront City". It has been a couple of years since I was there; the recent long weekend was an opportunity to re-acquaint myself with a place that I may spend my twilight years in. Two years is like a lifetime, it seems. There are buildings and roads never seen before, some nice and some not. And like Malaysians elsewhere, KT folks have embraced the cool comfort of hypermarkets and their dizzying choices.
The tranquil KT I first encountered decades ago is no more, not even at night.
The long weekend saw more cars with outstation plates, and longer lines at a favoured nasi dagang stall in Chendering, while hotels, guest houses and home-stays sold out early. Pasar Payang is the central market and major tourist destination offering East Coast specialties like batik, brass wares and keropok lekor was choc-a-block with dialects from far and wide. Well, at times I wished that, too, but this must surely be Visit Terengganu Year 2008.But there are some old world charms left in Kuala Terengganu: trishaws commandered by men with mengkuang hats; penambang, which are small commuter boats that ply the route between Pasar Payang and Seberang Takir; and folk look askance at traders who fleece tourists at Batu Burok beach. The vendors at Pasar Payang leave their produce and wares covered with tarpaulin or canvas before they leave for the day; no locks or keys, only faith in humanity and in man's fear of the hereafter.
There is something that was a constant ring this past week, it is Masjid Kristal at the Islamic Civilisation Park at Pulau Wan Man, 4km from the city centre. The park, officiated by the king last week, is a collection of 21 Islamic-inspired architectural structures, replicated there in a miniaturised yet imposing scale. They include the Taj Mahal of India, Al-Hambra (Spain), Kaylan Tower (Uzbekistan), Samarra Mosque (Iraq), Suleyman Complex (Turkey) and Xian Mosque (China).As per at Teluk Wan Man on Sungai Terengganu, you could be transported to different cultures just by crossing the street.
But it is Masjid Kristal, the park's crowning glory, that is likely to be fodder in this year's election. It must be noted that the crystal mosque suffered from bad public relations even before it was built, when it began to be referred as Masjid Kristal. Crystal denotes luxury and grandiosity. Many feel Terengganu needs many more things than a crystal mosque. Suspending my cynicism, I believe that the crystal mosque and the Islamic Civilisation park could work. Tourist destinations in Kuala Terengganu include Kampung China or Chinatown, Pasar Payang, Istana Maziah and the state museum. Most tourists head for the islands, and KT is just an airport stop. Now imagine an Islamic theme park with an opportunity for a royal wedding.Malaysian Muslims, who are the majority in the country, and to whom the project is most politicised, may soon find the place to be an irresistible destination.
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